Adventure Playground for Dogs

There are various activities and physical obstacles that can be used for socialisation of puppies and dogs of various ages and physical capabilities, without risk of injury. The type of obstacle or activity to choose depends on :

1. The physical capability of the dog

e.g. young puppies have different capabilities to young adolescent dogs, adult dogs are different again, the physical type of the dog and its fitness level should be taken into account.

2. The physical nature of the obstacle

Obstacles don’t have to be jumps.  Various objects can be used :
•    tyres
•    sheets of different materials
•    tunnel
•    boxes
•    steps
•    ramps
For puppies, walking over a metal sheet or other kinds of surfaces on the ground will build confidence. Walking across a low horizontal plank will help develop the puppy’s confidence and co-ordination. As the puppy becomes more confident and more capable, a gently sloping ramp can be introduced.

Other useful objects are old car tyres. They can be introduced flat on the ground, so the puppy or older dog can be encouraged to step onto the tyre, to climb over the into the centre and out again, or to walk along a row of tyres on the ground.

To introduce “going through”, we start with a tyre standing upright on the ground and encourage the puppy to climb through. As they become more confident and are a bit older, they can learn to do a low jump through.

Older dogs can go on to jumping through with the tyre raised slightly off the ground. The game can be developed in any number of ways.

Some people way wish to do these activities as a way of preparing their young dog for competition Agility, in which the dog has to jump through a tyre in a frame, at a certain height. However, competition and specific Agility obstacles are only one possibility. Many more games and activities using improvised obstacles can be set up. 

With tyres for example, you could set up a row of tyres, and have your dog go through them in sequence. They can be close together to form a tunnel, they can be far enough apart to form a series of jumps, they could be at different heights, or angled slightly rather than in a straight line. You could place several around and start to teach your dog to go through which ever on you send you dog to, using a directional hand signal.

If jumps are used, they can be very low, especially for young dogs. Even with older dogs, it is not necessary to train at full height all the time. It is never a good idea to have the jump set high when you are teaching the basic action of going over.
All of these activities give your pup, or older dog physical and mental stimulation, which is so lacking in many pets.

3. The training methods used

(1) Use gentle reward based methods.

(2) Use inducive methods - i.e. methods where the dog is encouraged to take his or her own first steps, and proceed at his or her own pace, rather than being physically handled over the obstacle.

(3) Build your dog’s confidence with the obstacle - this comes before doing an obstacle “correctly” or in a particular way.

(4) Use the process of “shaping”, i.e. start with the first step of the behaviour (which may be as little as putting one paw onto the board) and gradually build up the action step by step (many people throw the dog in the deep end by rushing the dog through on an attempt to complete the whole action - it is better to proceed in mini-stages)

(5) Guide the dog onto the obstacle in a slow and steady way, so they learn to go calmly and thoughtfully, gradually learning how to negotiate the obstacle, where to place their feet etc. rather than throwing themselves at the obstacle, and probably falling or leaping off. Speed and fluency come later.

(6) Break down the activity into components, teach each one separately and then put them together. Usually there are various different aspects of an activity. Wait until your dog is fluently going over a low jump before you raise the height slightly. Wait until your dog can fluently jump that height before you attempt two jumps in a row.

(7) Specific training aids, such as using the clicker to mark behaviour,  (for example clicking and rewarding at the precise moment your dog puts his or her hind paw on the ramp) can help in the learning process. The target stick, in which the dog is taught to follow the end of a stick, and is thereby guided up, down, around or along an obstacle, is very effective.

(8) Lure hand movements can be important to guide the dog initially. The dog needs to have experience in following a hand movement  (usually following food in your hand) rather than being physically manipulated into position. As handler you need to develop the skills of moving your hands in a way that will bring the dog into the desired position; rewarding small initial steps; and avoiding the common error of whipping the food away as the dog starts to move towards it.

Dealing with training and behaviour problems

I will give example of dogs presented to me with training and behaviour problems, which have turned out to be related to pain, injury or physical damage. Dog training instructors and handlers will be encouraged to run through a checklist of factors - a framework for troubleshooting training problems -  before assuming that the dog is “being stubborn”. Handlers should be alert to the signs of physical problems, pain or injury as reasons for refusal in training exercises.

Examples

#1 A young GSD, about 11 months old, had been doing obedience training. One day her owner came to class and expressed considerable frustration that the dog was no longer sitting reliably in the heel exercise. He was finding it hard not to go into “correction mode”. I asked him to put the dog through her paces. She looked attentive and co-operative, but when it came to the sit, she offered a bit of an intention movement then hesitated, seeming confused. I certainly saw no sign of refusal in her attitude. I suspected pain in her hind quarters. When this was thoroughly investigated, it turned out that she had severe hip dysplasia. Sadly this bitch was put down shortly afterwards.

#2 Example of dog snapping judge in show ring - description of all aspects investigated i.e. temperament of parents, socialisation of the dog, training and experience up until the incident, being in season, phantom pregnancy, age and developmental stage - so-called “secondary fear period” - body language of judge possibly causing defensive reaction in the dog - prior signs of stress, shown on the video, during a previous circuit around the ring - the dog “playing up” and being made to stand. A combination of several factors, which could all build up to a problem. Later investigations revealed a physical problem - some pain in spine, and pain in one hip. Likelihood of of fear and pain being generalised. Importance of both 1. diagnosis and treatment of pain and injury, and 2. desensitisation to rebuild her confidence and restore an happy, friendly, outgoing, relaxed attitude, especially in training situations.

# 3 Physical causes of training problems
An experienced trialler comments :
“I had a major problem with one of my Border Collies and the broad jump. She was alternately lame and refusing the broad jump. Finally somebody told me that she was pivoting on her right foreleg as she landed - which hurt (hence the refusals) or becoming lame. I moved to the last board and both problems went away.”